27 avril 2008

Bilan Andalousie 2008


Apres un réveil un peu tardif, puis l’envoi du blog sur la journée Port Aventura, nous sommes allés au marché faire quelques achats pour le retour en France (Luc s’est ruiné en jambons, saucissons et autres chorizos).
Sortant du camping à plus de midi, nous avons été posé le Manouche au fin fond de la baie de Salou, et ce fut le premier vrai bain de mer des vacances, mais c’était aussi le dernier jour.
Vers 17H, nous avons donc mis le cap plein nord vers le Canton (550 km plus haut) où la configuration classique s’est mise en place (DVD pour les enfants, lecture pour Claude et volant pour Luc).
Nous avons trinqué au passage des 30 000 km au compteur du Manouche, et sommes arrivés un peu fatigués peu après minuit au Canton.








Que dire comme bilan pour cette vadrouille « Espagne 2008 » ?

D’abord, nous avons trop roulé (l’Andalousie, c’est quand même assez loin) car, au compteur, nous avons fait 3 333 km en 13 jours, soit une moyenne de plus de 255km/jour (3 fois plus que notre périple en Italie-grèce où la moyenne avait été de 85 km/jour).
Historiquement, ce voyage était prévu sur 20 jours, mais le boulot de Claude a amputé le départ et la fête de l’APE a amputé le retour. Nous aurions dû nous cantonner alors à l’Espagne du quart Nord-est, mais le principe de la rencontre avec des amis à Tanger a empêché cette remise en cause (et l’ironie de l’histoire, c’est que la tempête a empêché les ferries de fonctionner et donc cette rencontre a été annulée).
Globalement, nous avons tenu le même budget moyen par jour que l’année dernière, mais les 450 litres de Diesel du Manouche ont été intégré ainsi que le coût de la vie espagnole (peu différent du français), donc il y a eu peu de restaurant au sens français (par ailleurs assez cher sauf le magnifique resto de Ronda), et le bar à tapas n’est pas la taverne grecque. Mais nous avons très bien compensé en faisant des courses pour manger dans le Manouche.

Ensuite, malheureusement l’Andalousie actuelle, ce n’est pas la Grèce (encore actuelle, ne nous aventurons pas sur le futur).
Les grands sites historiques des grandes villes (l’alhambra de Grenade, la Mesquita de Cordoue) sont absolument extraordinaires, des centres de petites villes (Baeza, Ronda) ont gardé un beau cachet, mais tout le reste est tragiquement totalement inintéressant sur le plan touristique (monoculture de l’olivier à perte de vue, réseau routier devenant uniquement autoroutier, total bétonnage de l’ensemble de la Costa del sol (avec un autoroute de bord de mer traversant de Malaga à Algégiras sur 200km une suite ininterrompue de résidences touristiques, et un autoroute payant 5km plus haut dans les terres), mise en abandon des anciens mas et création de faux village clapier (HLM horizontal) où sont parqués les ouvriers agricoles (rien que des boites à dormir, une mairie, une école, pas de bar, pas de commerce).

Si le critère est le plan économique, le constat est tout autre. On voit partout des grues qui construisent des « habitations », des chantiers de nouveaux autoroutes et aussi de lignes de TGV (cordoue-malaga, Madrid-valence, Barcelone-valence, des milliers d’éoliennes et des surfaces de plusieurs hectares de panneaux photovoltaïques (en fait, si ce n’est pas cultivable, c’est géré pour créer de l’énergie). Hors les parcs nationaux ou régionaux, aucune surface n’est laissé à l’état naturel (il n’y a même pas de bas coté sur les routes où arrêter une voiture, Alors, pour un camping-car !!)
Le plus souvent pour dormir (quand ce n’était pas dans un camping), nous quittions l’autoroute pour prendre la belle nationale à 3 ou 4 voies totalement déserte en recherchant un passage vers le précédent tracé de cette route (virage coupé, …). Il y a eu parfois des km irréalistes avec côte à cote, sur 100 m de large, l’autoroute, la belle nationale et l’ancienne route.

Donc, sur le plan économique, si on considère que c’est le principal, nous avons vraiment du souci à nous faire (pour mémoire, on ne prévoit pas le TGV à Perpignan avant 2020. En Espagne, si c’était nécessaire il serait déjà à la frontière en attente du raccordement).

Sur ce plan, le voyage a donc été extrêmement instructif, mais ce n’était pas tout à fait son but. Pour conclure, 2 photos, l'une pour marquer notre regret de ne pas avoir pu atteindre Tanger et l'Afrique, l'autre nous rappelant notre nuitée préférée (un endroit tres rare en Andalousie : un espace libre et naturel).





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Très intéressante description écoomique de cette région en forme de conclusion d'un voyage à suspense.
Je regrette mon Espagne d'il y a un demi-siècle mais il ne faut pas oublier qu'alors il s'gissait d'un pays où la liberté était très contrôlée. les Espagnols doivent certainement considérés que leur vie présente est bien meilleure. Dommage que progrès, humanisme et développement ne marchent pas à l'unisson.
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pas du tout d'accord avec l'analyse et la description de la cote de la costa del sol!il faut savoir s'areter une semaine dans un de ces lieux;monter dans la montagne environ 3 km quelquefois 5km et c'est l'emerveillemnt des villages andalous, de la nature;les pins les odeurs, la montagne et le calme absolu!d'accord pour se baigner il faut trouver le rond point et passer sous les autoroutes...la vieille ville de Malaga est superbe; celle de marbella aussi...il ne faut pas juger trop vite..une touriste qui retourne avec plaisir dans ces residences luxueuses de l'arriere pays de la costa del sol
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Assez d'accord avec votre description de l'Espagne actuelle... j'ai eu la même impression près de Valence, lors de voyages (trop) rapides également.

Mais peut-être faut-il en effet faire plus de pauses longues, et peut-être que vos trop nombreux km par jour ne vous ont pas permis de découvrir ces contrées comme il aurait fallu...

bon courage pour le retour et la reprise, et à très très bientôt les manouches (à nouveau) sédentaires

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